Step 1 - Making the "Shoebox"
Glue the foam together with Polyurethane Glue (Gorilla Glue is my preferred) to make up the blocks. If you are using one of my patterns the pattern will specify the size needed for the block.
Step 2 - Layout the pattern
Lay out the top and side views of the pattern on the block. Make sure that the top and side views are aligned front to back.
Step 3 - Cut out the decoy block
Following the pattern on the "shoebox, cut the pattern out using whatever tool you have available. This is one of the advantages to working with foam, it is easy to cut with any number of tools. I used a band saw but a knife or handsaw will work fine.
Step 3 - Shaping the decoy
This is where the fun begins. Using a rasp, knife, and sandpaper, start rounding the squared block into a decoy. The KEY thing to remember is that there are no flat sides on a real bird. To make it easy, think of making the back half and top the shape of half a football. Once all the sides are rounded, you can cut in the side pockets to define where the where the wing and side of the decoy meet. Once this is done, continue rounding down the side and over the top of the wing. You don't have to have a lot of detail here but a little shaping looks nice on the finished decoy.
Step 4 - Burlaping or Restle Coating
Burlaping - Using Acryl Pro or Mapei Mastic cover the entire decoy in about an 1/8" coating. Once this is completed, wrap the decoy with burlap (if you are using one of WorkingDecoy.net's patterns, the pattern for the burlap is included) by pressing the burlap into the Acryl Pro or Mapei Mastic. Once the burlap is set into the mastic, trim any extra so the decoy has an even surface. Allow this burlap/mastic coating to dry fully (24 hours)
Restle Coating - Mix a slighlty watered down solution of Tightbond II or III in a bucket. You want a consistancy of house paint. Coat the decoy with this solution, then cover with sawdust. Allow the decoy to fully dry and repeat the coating process.
Glue the foam together with Polyurethane Glue (Gorilla Glue is my preferred) to make up the blocks. If you are using one of my patterns the pattern will specify the size needed for the block.
Step 2 - Layout the pattern
Lay out the top and side views of the pattern on the block. Make sure that the top and side views are aligned front to back.
Step 3 - Cut out the decoy block
Following the pattern on the "shoebox, cut the pattern out using whatever tool you have available. This is one of the advantages to working with foam, it is easy to cut with any number of tools. I used a band saw but a knife or handsaw will work fine.
Step 3 - Shaping the decoy
This is where the fun begins. Using a rasp, knife, and sandpaper, start rounding the squared block into a decoy. The KEY thing to remember is that there are no flat sides on a real bird. To make it easy, think of making the back half and top the shape of half a football. Once all the sides are rounded, you can cut in the side pockets to define where the where the wing and side of the decoy meet. Once this is done, continue rounding down the side and over the top of the wing. You don't have to have a lot of detail here but a little shaping looks nice on the finished decoy.
Step 4 - Burlaping or Restle Coating
Burlaping - Using Acryl Pro or Mapei Mastic cover the entire decoy in about an 1/8" coating. Once this is completed, wrap the decoy with burlap (if you are using one of WorkingDecoy.net's patterns, the pattern for the burlap is included) by pressing the burlap into the Acryl Pro or Mapei Mastic. Once the burlap is set into the mastic, trim any extra so the decoy has an even surface. Allow this burlap/mastic coating to dry fully (24 hours)
Restle Coating - Mix a slighlty watered down solution of Tightbond II or III in a bucket. You want a consistancy of house paint. Coat the decoy with this solution, then cover with sawdust. Allow the decoy to fully dry and repeat the coating process.
